Saturday, December 1, 2007

London Fashion Week: Giles Deacon







It is hard for me to write an objective review of a Giles Deacon collection because I love Giles Deacon, let me count the ways… I fell in love with his clothes at first sight because they are clothes that not only are beautiful in their own right; they make the woman wearing them beautiful. This was something that became a revelation when I saw the photo of the radiant Miss Beth Ditto chanelling Cleopatra, in an incredible gold lame Giles Deacon dress in British Vogue. This picture undoubtedly has become one of this year’s most iconic images. This was Giles Deacon’s eighth collection for his own label. His shows are hot ticket events that super-models attend en masse. He graduated from Central St Martins in 1992 and then worked for Jean Charles De Castelbajac in Paris for two years. From 1998 until 2000, he was a designer at Bottega Veneta and the Gucci Group. He also designs the women’s ready-to-wear collection for Daks and a range for New Look.

The S/S 2008 had something for every taste. He started the show with stunning, yet completely surprising tailored grey denim dresses that had a sense of sobriety yet were completely drenched in the romanticism that followed throughout the rest of the collection. The dresses had a frothy, girly, sometimes “Hairspray” sweet feel which was tempered by intermittently with a Sex Pistols album-inspired print, and some beautiful ombre prints which turned out to be out-of-focus photos of Kate Moss. One of the most striking pieces in the collection was a perfectly tailored white coat that had knitted rubber bands adorning the front in the guise of fur. The attention to detail and handwork is masterful and the construction standards impeccable.

Giles Deacon is a little bit like the Debussy or the Merce Cunningham of fashion. His collections are a free-flowing exercise in unabashed creativity but the end result is a symphony for the eye and a joy to behold.

London Fashion Week: Fashion East and House of Holland










Fashion East is an Old Truman Brewery initiative also sponsored by Topshop. The first designer to show this year at Fashion East is one of my favorites. I have been following the career and work of Henry Holland for a while and love his tongue-in-cheek, completely sold out, fashion industry inside-joke t-shirts, made famous by model-of-the-moment Agyness Deyn. I am the proud owner of the Christopher Baily one and wherever I go, people smile.The other designers participating in the Fashion East show were Louise Gray and Noki. Louise Gray studied design and textiles at Glasgow School of Art specializing in embroidery followed by an MA at Central Saint Martins and she has worked on a freelance basis for Lanvin, Paris, and Peter Jensen. Noki, one of the leading voices against mass-production and globalised fashion, has been re-inventing discarded clothing with a precious, almost couture quality and breathing new life into them. Noki (an anagram of and pun on IKON) prefers to remain relatively anonymous, only recognizable by the elaborate masks he wears. This winter he has also designed footwear and bags for Luella. For Spring/Summer 2008 he introduced NOKI-NHS-Customization and Aftercare Service; NHS standing for Noki House of Sustainability.



For Spring 2008, Henry Holland opened the show with an image that is the best illustration of what the London’s fashion avant-garde is at this moment: Agyness Deyn, stomping down the runway in a studded patent leather chocolate-and-taxicab yellow hot-pants and motorcycle jacket set and in manner of Halle Berry at the Oscars, representing for every member of London’s creative community. The rest of the collection was rich in prints and saucy cuts, inventive menswear, skin-tight club wear and the coolest, in the truest sense of the word, studded jeans I have seen on the runways.Louise Gray’s collection was a burst of candy colors and her chiffon shift dresses decorated with a variety of trinkets are easy to wear, yet adventurous and not for the faint of heart.Noki’s proposition was extremely editorial and yet one of the most empowering perspectives in this year’s collections.

With re-cut rock concert t-shirts, taffeta prom dresses finding a new soul and formerly staunchly preppy plaid prints turned into subversive statements, Noki extends an invitation to the punk rocker kid in all of us to go to the thrift store and create our own couture, while at the same time, we keep our planet a little bit healthier. And that is an idea that we should all take to heart.

Life After Project Runway







Another one of my stolen article collection.
Malan can vouch that I wrote this one...

It is unarguable that Project Runway has brought a new awareness to the world of fashion and an appreciation for the work of fashion designers. Three of my favorite Project Runway contestants are making a big impact with independent luxury labels of their very own, and all of them with distinct points of view and sensibilities.

Jeffrey Sebellia, winner of the 3rd Season of Project Runway is the force behind Cosa Nostra, a label whose roots are firmly entrenched in punk and the LA rock & roll aesthetic but whose detailed construction standards and almost lyrical beauty is now available at several indie boutiques across the country. Cosa Nostra along with another one of my favorite Rock-Couture labels, Thomas Wylde, can be found at the decadent and gorgeous ElectricLadyland with shops in Scottsdale and Phoenix, Arizona. The collection can also be found at the eponymous J.Ransom boutique.

Also at J Ransom, I was overjoyed to find a new line of glorious pre-colonial art inspired luxury bags and jewelry by extremely hot and up and coming Mexican designer N.A.H.U.A.L.. N.A.H.U.A.L. first came to my attention because he was part of the sold-out and mega-collectible series of Dunny Azteca art toys by KidRobot. The bags are crafted in the finest Italian leathers and use exclusively sterling silver hardware. They sell for around three thousand dollars and would be stunning paired with the Aztec print dress from Jean Paul Gaultier.





Kara Janx is another Project Runway alumn that is making a notable impact in independent boutiques. Kara is the perky and recently married South African designer in Season 2 and probably the one with the most commercial success. Kara’s collections are very modern and versatile. One of her creations, the kimono dress, has become a trademark and consistently sells out in boutiques across the country. Kara’s dresses can be found at Green Apple.




Finally, another Project Runway graduate that is making a big splash in the fashion world is the wonderful and incredibly sweet Malan Breton.

Malan has been designing absolutely exquisite collections that have been shown during NY Fashion Week and that are the closest thing to heaven for those of us with Old Hollywood luxury cravings. Confections are reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn, Katherine Hepburn, and Jean Harlow and are inspired by simple elegance, the mystery and beauty of the Asian Continent. The collections can be found at his atelier in Manhattan on 36th ST. since he just outgrew his East Village location.

My summer vacation and Paean to Jared Gold





Here is another one of those stolen L report articles.
Here’s a story: I recently returned from a trip to Italy where I attended my sister’s wedding. I flew Virgin Atlantic into London and Alitalia to Rome and finally on to Ancona. The wedding was at the groom’s native city of Recanati in the Marche region of Italy. Guests traveled from all over the world and I was absolutely delighted by the hotel we stayed at: The Gallery Hotel in Recanati. Needless to say, you need to get over there; fast!

The Gallery Hotel Recanati was built after the faithful restoration of a sixteenth century building that housed the Counts Percivalli -Broglio d’Ajano, and has undergone many re-inventions (just like Madonna) throughout the centuries. It served as a seminary in the 1700’s, and then as a secondary school in the last few years. The hotel was close to the town’s cathedral and not far from the town museum, Villa Colloredo Mels, which permanently hosts the famous “Annunciation” by Lorenzo Lotto. Under the protective shade of the cathedral and its bell-tower, the palace of Counts Percivalli –Broglio d’Ajano is host to the chapel in which the popular tenor Beniamino Gigli from Recanati started his singing career.

The lounge bar at the hotel, the Café Opera, is named in his honour. The food, particularly the regional specialties at both the lounge bar and the restaurant , The Incanto, is outstanding. We had several special regional tasting menus prepared for our very large and very international party, including an exquisite pre-wedding cocktail reception on their deck across the street from the hotel, at the feet of the stunning Cathedral tower. The service was delightful. Recanati, like many smaller cities in Italy, has cobble-stone streets.

I was running to the wedding already late, in a pair of incredible Mod white and lucite 5-inch platform shoes, and the ‘Elizabeth’ dress by Monsoon which is named after Elizabeth Hurley, who wore it for her Indian wedding. The look was completed by gorgeous lucite and gold jewelr. Well, the inevitable happened, and I , in true Naomi Campbell form, took a giant fall in the middle of the narrow street, dislocating my left knee and tearing up my medial lateral ligament (once a medical writer, always a medical writer).

I was hurried via ambulance to the emergency room, and later on I made a very fashionable entrance to thunderous applause at the reception which took place at a restaurant on the beach at Porto Recanati. The staff at the hotel treated me like a queen and could not have been kinder or more solicitous. The hotel manager had her father buy me a pair of very high-design Italian crutches in a neighboring city, and the concierge brought them back to me presto, so I could make it to the reception in time. I highly recommend this hotel. The food, the staff, and the absolutely stunning view will make your next trip to the Marche region one that you will look back on fondly.

The accident put a huge damper on the trip, but I still managed to tear up the shops in London on my way back, catching the sales at the big stores on Knightsbridge and Bond Street, and paying a visit to High Street favourite TopShop, where I went to pick up some pieces by indie designer label N2, by French jewelry design house Les Nereides.

I have been getting tons of compliments on my lawn gnome earrings and my Caprese salad necklace which features tiny tomatoes, basil leaves and a piece of mozzarella. Their jewelry is truly delicious. I have been nursing my injury, which would put even the fashionista with the sunniest disposition in a dark mood, and that is perfect since my favourite holiday All Hallow’s Eve, is right around the corner.

It is hard to get in a Halloween kind- of -mood here in Southern California, because there is no sudden chill in the air or leaves changing colours.

But I figured finding a great costume might help. I visited the amazing Flashbacks on 5th avenue in San Diego, which houses the best selection in vintage and vintage designer couture from the 20’s to 80’s. I love this store. It is a veritable treasure trove of fantastic finds. I have on past visits scored everything from a Missoni sweater dress to an Hermes scarf. For less than fifty dollars each. Every year, the people at Flashbacks outdo themselves with eye-catching Halloween window displays so it is well-worth visiting. You will have to stay tuned to my posts closer to the date to find out what a die-hard fashion fiend like me will dress up as. One hint: quilted bag and a ponytail. And it’s a he

Another reason to visit San Diego is a the gastronomic institution that is Bertrand’s at Mister A’s. I was there for a romantic tete-a-tete with a gentleman caller and the food was more romantic, sensuous and interesting than the man I was on the date with. And certainly more memorable.

The menu at Bertrand’s is Modern American cuisine with a Mediterranean flair and a decidedly Gallic influence.

The award winning ( and terribly sexy) chef de cuisine Stephane Voitzwinkler, takes great pride in offering a fresh and tantalizing menu that complements the stunning panoramic views outside of the dining room. On my last visit I had extraodinary entree featuring filet mignon with a sumptuous morel sauce and one of my favorite comfort foods ever, spaetzle, the whole meal crowned by the swoon-inducing chocolate mousse bars. That is a what I call a treat. No tricks at all.


And I could not think of a better new designer to talk about this time of the year than Jared Gold.

I was introduced to the work of Jared Gold through mutual friend and LA style icon Clint Catalyst, author of the celebrated “Cottonmouth Kisses”, and indie jewelry designer par excellence, her sparkling Highness, Tarina Tarantino. Jared Gold was featured a few season’s ago in America’s Next Top Model and has risen to fame because one of his creations, the Swarovski crystal-encrusted Madagascar hissing cockroach brooch, has caused quite a stir, many a raised eyebrow and several potential top model’s distress.

Jared Gold’s clothes and collections are as much a fashion proposition as an intellectual exercise. Part tribal art, part Lewis Caroll and Roald Dahl stories, and part film noir, his inspirations are abstract, rich, complex and multi-tonal like a cup of thick Mexican hot chocolate or the version of Lou Reed’s “Sweet Jane” as sung by the Cowboy Junkies. Gold’s muses include the extraordinary Clint Catalyst, musician/internet celebrity Jeffree Star and America’s Next Top Model’s most infamous alumna, the beautiful Miss Lisa D’Amato.His Spring 2006 collection entitled “Glinka”, was inspired by Russian opera composer Mikhail Glinka, often considered the father of Russian classical music. The collection, in the designer’s own words, is “fueled by the dark obscured visions of endlessly complex gypsy operas, crossed with psychedelic cattle ranchers, deep country sorcery and glitter rock refugees”. The clothes are truly poetic and insanely beautiful and the Russian influence in the richness of the fabrics and the opulence of the cuts can be seen in all of the collection’s pieces.

Jared Gold can be found at The Black Chandelier, his flagship store in Salt Lake City, at Sirens and Sailors in LA and online at.

Zero+Maria Cornejo Fashion Week Review

And here is another one of those purloined articles... I am so glad I posted them on myspace before I posted them there...

Maria Cornejo is a fashion industry veteran and a native of Chile, a country s rich in natural beauty and whose culture is influenced by myriad of European influxes and a rich and complex history that has given rise to amazing artists and particularly, poets.



Chileans call their country país de poetas—land of poets. Gabriela Mistral was the first Chilean to win a Nobel Prize for Literature (1945). Chile's most famous poet, however, is Pablo Neruda, who also won the Nobel Prize for Literature (1971) and is world-renowned for his extensive library of works on romance, nature, and politics. Maria Cornejo's work reflects that poetic tradition.



Maria's career spans London, Paris, Milan and Tokyo where she was part of the ground-breaking design partnership Richmond Cornejo and developed her own signature "Maria Cornejo" collection. She also worked as a creative consultant for major retailers like Joseph, Tehen and Jigsaw.



In 1996, Maria and her family moved to New York where in 1997, she transformed a raw space in Nolita into an atelier and a store. Her uncompromising and very personal approach has gained her a loyal following and high praise from clients like Tilda Swinton, Michelle Williams and Cindy Sherman. It has been said of her work - "In Maria Cornejo's hands, minimalism is not a bland word . . . her clothes have a sleek sophistication and always a sense of surprise."




The Zero + Maria Cornejo collection is presented bi-annually during New York Fashion Week and in Milan and Paris. The line is sold in leading stores around the world such as Barneys New York, Holt Renfrew Toronto & Montreal; Ikram Chicago and Blake Chicago; Weathervane Santa Monica; Grocery Store and Mac San Francisco; Dover Street Market London; Joyce Boutique Hong Kong and Villa Moda in Dubai.




For Spring 2008, Zero + Maria Cornejo presents an organic, minimal and romantic proposition inspired by nature, especially water.




Her clothes are directional, yet classic, fresh and timeless. They seamlessly merge into the classic American sportswear tradition lending it a new, fresh perspective.




The pastoral imagery translated on the runway into colorful pieces and interesting textural contrasts such a tangerine sweater dress, a chartreuse cocooning cardigan and several outstanding pieces in navy and royal blue interpreted in lacquered materials that were clearly reminiscent of the reflective qualities of light on a body of water.




These looks, despite their natural and organic inspiration, are perfect for a hot summer in the city, and some of the most wearable and covetable pieces for today's fashion conscious urban dweller.









NY Fashion Week Review-Ohne Titel

Here is one of the reviews I wrote for the L report which the editor then proceeded to steal by erasing my name and slapping hers on it

Ohne Titel, German for "untitled," is the name of Parson's School of Design graduates Flora Gill and Alexa Adams' new label.



Spring 2008 is their maiden collection and from their design proposition, they are a promising new force in the fashion horizon.



With innovative, yet impeccable tailoring and construction reminiscent of seminal Japanese designers like Issey Miyake, Yohi Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, striking graphic tribal prints and accessories in raffia, the 80's influence in the collection echoes throughout all the designs.



Ohne Titel definitely showed some of the most novel shapes in pants both as separates and in the context of pantsuits.



The exacting beauty of the tailoring in the jackets is to me one of the main selling points in this collection. The designers are so masterful in the command of tailoring techniques, that they can create a perfect jacket and then further elaborate the thesis in the design with asymmetrical hems and closings but without compromising the precision of the fit. The fit of the jackets is architectural yet relaxed and comfortable, exactly what a jacket should be and I had only seen before in Helmut Lang's collections.



The jackets are paired with new incarnations of 80's shapes like the harem pant or the stovepipe crating pantsuits that are immensely wearable and in my opinion, timeless like a Noguchi piece of sculptural furniture.



Ohne Titel is very much a collection that refers to art and architecture.


Their prints were inspired by totemic art and the work of French painter Jean Dubuffet.



Their skirts and dresses are softer and feminine, yet when contrasted with their jackets they provide today's working women with the most refreshing and exciting options since Duran Duran ruled the airwaves with 'Rio" and Nagel, Basquiat and Haring changed our collective sensibility with their visions of raw urban beauty.



Ohne Titel aims to appeal to that same edgy, yet functional intellectual sensibility and by all means succeeds.





Teletubbies Baby Sun Jacket-The Shoulder pads...

I am working on the TBSJ ( Teletubbies Baby Sun Jacket) and I have gotten to the point where I need to find the shoulder pads.


My jacket shape is great and the fit is INFREAKINGPECCABLE. It tapers at my waist exactly the way it should and the alteration made it immaculate.


My inspiration for the shape of the jacket is twofold... The work from amazing 1930's-40's Hollywood designer Adrian Gilbert who used to design for Joan Crawford and the work of Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana in the 80's.


This is some of Adrian's work:






Image


Joan Crawford modeling &x0022;Change,&x0022; a two-piece silk dinner dress with gold paillettes designed by Gilbert Adrian for the film Humoresque (1946). &xA9; Bettmann/CORBIS.


And here are some of Thierry Mugler's:







And this is Claude Montana:




As you can see, I am going for High Shoulder drama and I ain't messing around.


It only makes sense... in order to even exagerate more an hourglass figure, I need monumental shoulder pads if I take into account my hips.


I need some serious pads here and I have only been able to locate them at one place.


They are only 2 inches thick. I am looking for Hockey worthy shoulder pads.


Shoulder Pad 50E


As I said, I ain't messing around...


That jacket is going to kick so much ass...


The teacher said that one they are done they are going to be worth around 2 grand because of all the handwork.


Well, I am going to make sure mine would fetch at least 6 grand .


Sweet :-)


I love designing.